Perfectly Smooth Walls: A Skim Coating Tutorial
I’ve mentioned it a few times before, but I really do love a smooth wall. In every renovation we’ve done, I always lean toward a level five finish when it makes sense. It’s clean, simple, and timeless, and in my opinion, it makes everything else in a room feel a bit more tailored. I know smooth drywall can be a little intimidating, but once you see the method and results, it’s totally worth the effort. If you’ve ever wondered what a level five finish actually is or whether you can tackle skim coating yourself, I’m walking you through every step of the process in this post.
During our home office renovation, I received so many questions during the drywall portion of the process. While Emmett and I were in the midst of it, I figured it would be the perfect time to show you how to get a perfectly smooth finish- either on your own or with a contractor. Now you’ll know what to look for! Let’s get started…
Why Smooth Walls Are My Go-To
Smooth walls are one of those small upgrades that make a big difference. We’re always working to create a refined elevated look, and this is a detail I go back to often. A smooth finish allows the architecture, furnishings, and art to stand out, without competing with texture. If you’ve removed wallpaper or are working with patched drywall, skim coating is a great way to reset the surface and create a clean slate.
In the office renovation, the drywall was a mix of old and new. The original walls had leftover texture, lines from wallpaper removal, and a visible stripe running around the entire space where we had removed the chair rail. Since only half the sheetrock was newly installed, my goal was to skim coat everything to create one seamless finish. I wanted all the walls to match and look smooth, so we aimed for a level five finish across the entire room.
Understanding Drywall Levels
Before getting started, here’s a quick rundown of drywall finishing levels:
- Level 0: Level zero means the drywall is just up on the wall or ceiling with nothing done to it yet. No mud, no tape – just exposed screws and joints. It’s the true starting point before any finishing begins.
- Level 1: Level one means that the joint tape has been installed and mudded, but nothing else has been completed.
- Level 2: This level means that you have skim coated a thin layer of joint compound over the tape and covered the drywall screws. If you’re planning to tile, it’s fine to stop at this level. Many tract homes receive this level in the garage.
- Level 3: This stage indicates a solid coat of joint compound has been installed to the tape and screws. Walls that will receive a heavy texture (like knockdown), often stop at this level. Level 3 finishing is meant for a highly textured wall outcome.
- Level 4: This is your classic drywall finish… the standard or norm. Level 4 receives an additional coat of joint compound to cover the tape, seams, screws, and has been sanded in between. This is the most common finish and can be painted or wallpapered nicely.
- Level 5: As you might have guessed, Level 5 is the highest quality drywall finish you can get. It’s smooth from top to bottom, with no bumps or texture in sight. You get there by applying multiple thin layers of joint compound and finishing it all off with a thorough sanding. It takes time and a bit of patience, but the result is a clean, even surface that looks great under any paint color.
Tools and Materials We Use
Here’s everything we use to achieve a smooth, even finish:
- Joint Compound (we like ultraweight)
- Roller with a 3/4″ Nap, pictured above (the nap is important because it provides texture and rolls it on thick)
- Skimming Blade (I have a 32″ for walls and a 12″ & 14″ for working around outlets and windows)
- Sanding Pads (I use 220 and 180)
- Drill with Mixer Attachment
- Bucket with a Lid (to keep it from drying out in between passes)
How We Skim Coat
Before jumping in, let’s talk about the blade. The longer your skim coating blade is, the smoother and flatter your walls will turn out. We used our trusty 32 inch blade here, but if your walls are especially uneven or bumpy, start with a 24 inch blade to tackle those tricky spots first. Once that’s done, you can move up to the longer one to even everything out. Alright, let’s walk through the skim coating process together step by step.
Step 1: Mix the Joint Compound
Start by mixing your joint compound with water until it has the consistency of thick cake batter. I usually eyeball it instead of measuring. Use a power drill with a mixer attachment to blend it all together until smooth and lump-free.
Step 2: Roll on the Mud
Once your joint compound is mixed to the right consistency, it’s time to roll it onto the wall. I use a roller with a 3/4 inch nap to apply the mud in sections. I like to work in about a 32 inch wide area at a time, covering half the wall height. That helps keep the compound from drying out too fast while I’m working. The nap adds just enough texture, which makes it easier to smooth with the blade in the next step.
Below is a closer look at the texture the roller leaves behind. It looks kind of scary, as we’re going for perfectly smooth walls- but the key is working in thin, layered coats.
Step 3: Smooth with the Skim Blade
Now it’s time to smooth things out. Using your skim coating blade, apply firm and even pressure as you sweep across the section you just rolled. The goal here isn’t to build up material, it’s to remove the excess and flatten the surface. I always work in sections and stick with thin, consistent layers. Think of it like icing a cake, you want a smooth finish, not a thick one.
Step 4: Use Long, Even Sweeps
I always hold the blade at a sharp angle and try to work fast because the joint compound dries quicker than you’d think. For the best results, I move the blade in long, smooth sweeps without lifting it from the wall. If your walls need more than one coat, and most do, I like to switch directions between layers. I’ll go up and down for the first, then side to side for the second. The key is keeping your motion consistent and fluid the whole time.
Step 5: Keep Moving and Clean as You Go
After finishing one section, I move right on to the next using the exact same steps. I always clean my blade between sections since the joint compound dries fast and a clean blade makes all the difference. It helps me keep the finish smooth and even across the entire wall.
Step 6: Reload and Stay Consistent
I refill my paint tray with joint compound before starting each new section. To keep things smooth and avoid drying out mid-project, I like using a bucket with a lid. It keeps the consistency just right while I work. I also prefer mixing a big batch all at once, it saves time and cuts back on cleanup.
Step 7: Apply Additional Coats and Finish the Corners
Once the walls are dry, we go back in with another layer. In the office, we did three total coats, one each day. The surface was already fairly smooth, so that was enough to get us to a level 5 finish. After the main walls are done, we use a corner trowel to coat the inside corners so everything blends evenly. Then we let the final coat dry completely for a full day before giving it a thorough sanding to get that super smooth finish we’re after.
Expert Tips & Takeaways
- The longer the blade, the smoother your finish
- Mix more joint compound than you think you’ll need so you don’t have to remix mid-project
- Keep your tools clean between passes to avoid dragging dry compound across the wall
- Don’t panic about the color or tone of the drywall once skim coated, primer evens everything out
When to Use a Level Five Finish
A level five finish isn’t always necessary, but it really shines in certain spaces. We love using it in rooms that get a lot of natural light or areas where we want a minimal, clean look. If you’re working with a contractor, make sure you specifically ask for level five, since most homes get a level four by default. Check out this post on tips for finding, hiring, and managing reliable contractors!
Maintenance and Painting
After sanding and priming, your smooth walls are ready for paint. I always recommend starting with a good quality primer to give your paint a true base. We usually wait a full day after sanding before priming, just to make sure everything is fully dry and settled.
FAQ
Skim coating gives you a smooth, uniform surface across the entire wall. Patching only fixes small areas and usually leaves subtle inconsistencies. If you want walls that are smooth from edge to edge without texture or dips, skim coating is the way to go. Painting over rough walls won’t hide flaws, it’ll highlight them.
If you’re comfortable with tools and have the time, you can absolutely tackle it yourself. Just know it’s labor intensive and a bit messy. I personally like doing it because I can control every part of the process, but if you’re short on time or don’t want to deal with sanding dust, it’s totally worth hiring a pro. Just be sure to talk through the finish level beforehand. Not all contractors default to level 5.
Rushing the process. I’ve learned that trying to skim too much wall at once or skipping blade cleaning can really affect the outcome. It’s better to work in smaller sections and keep everything clean and consistent. Also- don’t skip sanding between coats, those tiny imperfections can really show once it’s painted.
Related Posts
Looking for more posts that walk you through achieving professional-level finishes in your home without hiring it all out? I’ve shared a handful of helpful tutorials that will make your next renovation project a little smoother, I’ll link them for you below!
- Designer Guide for Choosing the Best Paint Sheen or Finish
- 24 of My Favorite Neutral (Non-White) Paint Colors
- How Paint Color Percentages Work and When To Use Them
- Favorite Benjamin Moore Paint Swatches
- 10 Painting Tips for Cutting In
If you’ve been thinking about smoothing your walls, I hope this helps you get started. Whether you’re doing it yourself or just want to understand the process, a skim coat can really transform a space. We’ve done this in several rooms and I always love the end result. Let me know if you have any questions about tools, materials, or technique. I’m happy to share more details as we finish up the office.
Good morning, Emmett! Clear and concise explanations, as always. I’m not sure I’ve ever been in a house with such smooth walls! Our 1940s house has all the textures. I’ve had fun trying to match them in several rooms. Ugh. I do have a couple of quick questions. I wonder what is the difference among the weights in joint compound? I would assume that heavier was better for longevity. Although, to be honest, I don’t remember having a choice…maybe because I always buy premixed. My second question is about sanding. Is it only required when you are aiming for a super smooth finish, or does it help with adhesion of subsequent coats? I confess that I have never *really* sanded when I skim coated entire walls, only when I was patching. That sounds like the worst job ever! You definitely needed a drywall sander. Once you’re finished with the skim coating, are the built-ins (and trim) next? Everything is going to be SO beautiful…well worth the time! I hope you’re having a super week, Emmett!
Matching texture is not easy! We’ve had to do that in the past. I’m going to let Emmett answer your joint compound & sanding questions (because he definitely knows best). He finished all of the sanding last night, so next up is primer & paint… then built-ins and millwork! SO exciting. I hope you have a great Tuesday, Peggi :)
Hey Peggi! The different weights,in my opinion, come down to preference. There is typically All Purpose, Topping, and Dust Control/Lightweight. I’ve used all and sometime wonder if I can tell the difference, however the I will say there is no wrong answer, but most use the all-purpose for embedding the tape, and use a topping or lightweight for all subsequent coats. Next up is priming, touch ups for any spots I missed sanding, and then paint. Then on to millwork (cabinets,base, crown, casing)! Thanks!
I think the what is a standard finish varies a lot by region. I live in Texas and I don’t think I’ve ever seen a level 4 wall. Everyone either has a light knockdown texture or an incredibly light orange peel (my understanding is they use a very watered down light orange spray texture and then knock it down to remove any peaks like a combination of orange peel and knockdown). Regardless level 4 is considered a premium finish everywhere I’ve lived.
Definitely, Jenn! It also depends on the age of a home or when it was built. The norms have certainly changed over the years. In that case (opting for a common texture), you’d stop drywall finishing at level 3, then add the texture (orange peel, knockdown, slap brush, etc). My personal preference is a super smooth wall, so when we’re installing new drywall or totally renovating a room- that’s always what I specify or ask Emmett to do.
So I know that this isn’t the purpose of the post, but would you use the same steps to try to match a plaster finish (minus the sanding)? That’s the closest I’ve seen to the texture of plaster (using the roller). Really appreciate the level of detail you went into, and especially the pictures!
I’ll leave this question for Emmett! Our first home had plaster walls, but it has been a long time since we’ve worked with plaster and I’m not entirely certain… he’ll have a good answer for you though :)
Hi! It definitely would be. In our old home we had plaster and drywall however I tried to remove all the plaster from an entire wall (corner to corner) rather than having 2 types of wall finished on a a single plane. You can tie them together but this helps eliminate seeing the difference!
Thank you so much for writing this post, Emmett! I wish I had known all of this info when I was having drywall work done, but there are still a few rooms in my house that I’m going to be finishing myself, so I appreciate the clear and detailed information. I’m now off to buy a skimming blade!
I am happy you found it useful. There also a lot of skim blades out there, but the Level 5 brand is by far the easiest to use – if you are worried about the price there is always a strong secondhand market for them too!
Good morning Emmett! Thank you for the clear explanations. I wasn’t aware there were different levels of drywall finish, but this makes perfect sense. I apologize in advance; I have ALL the questions!
I will be trying to achieve this smooth finish in multiple rooms (eventually), but we currently have knockdown texture throughout. What sort of prep needs to be done to the existing drywall before skim coating? Additionally, is it necessary to sand in between coats, or only after the final coat has been applied?
In terms of materials, speaking specifically about the joint compound, can you use the same weight in a bedroom that you use in a bathroom? Or is there a recommended weight to use for damp rated areas?
When it comes down to using the scraping knife, do you have any tips for smoothing the joint compound around a bullnose corner? Every corner in our house is bullnose.🥴 Would it be worth it to remove the trim pieces and take the corners back to standard? In California bullnose corners are considered an “upgrade”, but they sure complicate things! For the sake of giggles, you’d likely be unimpressed with the horrifying cuts the builders made to accomplish the base trim. 🤣😂 When these rooms get skim coated, we will be installing new base, using a standard corner cut and filling the gaps instead, but I always wondered about removing the bullnose form…already it sounds labor intensive.😅
For rooms where wallpaper will be applied, is it necessary to prime the walls after skim coating?
Lastly, is a drywall sander one of the items that can be rented from a big box store? Out of curiosity (you don’t have to answer this one if you prefer not to), what does a drywall sander run if buying new or used?
You and Sarah are such a wealth of knowledge in these areas, and your hard work certainly pays off in spades! The spaces the two of you tackle are out of this world gorgeous. Thank you for putting together this tutorial, and have an awesome week Emmett! P.S. the office is looking outstanding!
Hi Lauren, I’ll try to answer all your question-
1.) I would prime any old surfaces being skim coated. If the walls are heavily soiled (kitchen/bath/oil/finger smudges) the. Wash the walls first then apply primer.
2.) only sand the final coat. In between coats use a small taping knife to knockdown any ridges or clumps before applying the next coat.
3.) mud types are the same throughout the house- most pros use all purpose for the 1st coat and a lightweight for the final coats.
4.) all drywall, wallpapered or not, should be primed first.
5.)I agree- I’m not a fan of rounded corners. They do make quite a mess taking them out, but now would be the time to replace before skim coating. If you are skim coating both sides of the bullnose corner then I would buy an outside bullnose tool to smooth the corner. If you are only skim coating the one side I would just run your skim blade flat to the edge and sand/taper the skim coat to where the bullnose starts rounding.
6.) our sander is the nicest one available- 1,250 new and I picked it up for 750 with a few other accessories. I’m sure there is cheaper ones and yes you can always find an equipment rental store locally!
Thanks for your comment and good luck with those pesky bullnose corners!
Thank you! Super helpful! Out of curiosity, from a design standpoint, is a level 5 finish a “proper” finish for when doing millwork like panels and wainscot?
We recently redid a bathroom and did picture frame molding on all the walls ans installed bardboard over the drywall to get the smooth finish, but after seeing this I’d be up for just skimcoating the walls.
However, for a quicker fix in some other rooms in our house, I’d like to do some molding on the walls, but the walls are all in an open plan and I we can’t make the move to skim coat or cover all the texture in those rooms. Will the molding look bad or unrealistic (for lack of better description) on top of knockdown or orange peel? (Not sure exactly what it is, but we are in Texas and its the norm).
Would love your thoughts on this!
Thanks! And this tutorial is the best I’ve seen on this topic!
So glad to hear it, Jaylyn! I would say a level 4 is sufficient for millwork and paneling, but level 5 is definitely the designer preference if you’re going for that clean, classical look. Sometimes it’s easier to replace the drywall or material completely and other times skim coating works great… it really depends on the space and your plan for it. We’ve done both! Personally, I don’t love the look of additional millwork (panel moulding, chair rail, wainscoting, etc) installed against a textured wall. I think it’s easier to get away with the typical crown and base, but the extra treatments are tricky because they’re two different styles. I chat more about that specific topic in this post: https://roomfortuesday.com/your-millwork-questions-answered-a-qa/ Have a great day!!
Thank you so much for this Emmett! I’ve called around and received ridiculous quotes to skimcoat a 259 sq ft room. And when you call drywall contractors in NC to ask for a level 5 on painted walls, they say that is just one coat. I like how you did 3.
This takes a lot of the anxiety and guesswork out of DIYing it. I want smooth and flawless walls before I paint, so I’m definitely going to order the tools you listed and give it a go myself.
I will probably go for the Radius360 Pole Sander, which will require a bit of a workout, but is cost-effective for the job. Lol
Hi Ana! It is easy but like many things practice makes perfect. And when I drywall I see EVERY minor imperfection and it kills me. You will do good! My best advice when skim coating is make sure you have a solid even pressure when moving the skim blade. You don’t want to build up a thick coat. Also, if you do not push hard enough you will end up with tiny air pockets after sanding. A pole sander is just fine with 220+grit if your skimming was done well enough, very little sanding should be needed. I went with ultralight mostly out of personal preference but I also believes it is less dusty when sanding. Good luck!
Curious, why did you use the USG UltraLightweight Ready-Mixed Joint Compound instead of the USG All Purpose Ready-Mixed Joint Compound?
Hi! Thanks for the detailed explanation, is there a reason why you didn’t use PVA as a base prior to mudding?
Sure thing, Rachel! We’ve never used PVA when skim coating or mudding- it has never been necessary for our process. I’m sure there are many ways to get the same result though!
Actually, upon chatting with Emmett- we do occasionally use PVA… it just depends what we have on hand, but it achieves the same result.
I’m confused lol, so when does Emmett use PVA vs not?
We hardly ever use it, honestly … he prefers the joint compound I linked in the post!
When can I use water while smoothing a skim coating?
Great article. I am getting ready to have Level 5 finish through out the whole house. How do you repair nails that coming out? Also, do I need to scrape olr paint or just go over?
Thank you.
Tatyana
To repair nail holes on Level 5 (since they’re small), we just use spackle or joint compound, followed by sanding to ensure it’s smooth and matches the texture. If you’re asking about preparation prior to coating, it’s best to ask the contractor you’re working with (it sounds like you’ve hired it out). Typically, they’ll take care of everything. Hope that helps!
Came back to say I appreciated this guide. It got me started last year when we did our entire bedroom with THICK hard texture. At the time I used a Harbor Freight drywall sander and a cheap Rigid shop vac that wasn’t very great. Learned from those lessons and now this year as we tackle the rest of the entire house, I’m using a Festool Planex and the accompanying Festool dust extractor, as well as a Festool 5” sander. I justified it by the money saved not paying a contractor and I can either sell it all later or keep it and let friends and family use it when needed.
I also use the 32” Level 5 blade that I bought after reading this (and got a little out of hand buying a lot of their other stuff lol) and all of the new equipment made the job FAR more enjoyable and easier all around. We’re doing much better than we did last year and have had great success using 40 grit sandpaper on the Planex to smooth out the wall and knock down high spots before applying any skim coat first. Less mud is needed and the overall coat doesn’t become so thick. I also find sanding between skim coats helps the final product, but that may just be a “me” thing.
So glad to hear that, Stephen!
This is The first time I read about level 5 coating, I will try on a rough ledge, which my wife has complained about for years. The ledge is about 3 inches in width and 4 feet in length.
Good luck, Hubert!
Hey there! Is sanding first necessary or just at the end?
Hi! Just at the end!
We recently did a major remodel. The house is supposed to a level 5 finish. Every wall is new. I feel life you can’t touch the walls without leaving a dent. Is this normal? Is there something we could or should do so it’s not so dramatic? We used a contractor, but I’m feeling like we’re in a “you get what you pay for” situation so I just need to figure out how to manage this going forward. By the time we moved furniture in it looked like we’d lived here for years.
Oh wow, sorry to hear that Jessica! Without seeing it in person, it’s tough to know what’s going on. I’m wondering if the material or curing process was wrong? Was haven’t had issues with denting. We are careful not to bang our walls, but even if we do… it usually results in a scuff, rather than a dent. Normal wear and tear. I’d maybe reach out to your contractor for details or questions?
Hello Emmett.
So , I sanded a old light popcorn texture on the walls, did 2 coats of skim coating, sanded. Got everything wiped. Applied the 1st coat of high build primer. My husband is not a good painter and had a lot of drips and line left behind. I lightly sanded. I saw some old texture coming through. I put more mud. Sanded. Now second coat is on. Still wee lines and nap from priming (used mosaic 3/16 nap on rolls).
I want a vey smooth finish. I M planning on light sanding the wall with 220 grid. Should I spay a 3 coat of primer after sanding to get a very smooth before painting? Or should I paint after sanding 2nd coat?
Also, I have hand orbital sander. It seems Festool is very expensive. An you recommend other cheaper ductless electrical sander?
Thank you. Tatyana
I would suggest using a large manual hand sander with at least 8″+ pads… a large sanding block with a pole. That’s going to be much better than a small orbital sander, as it’s too aggressive and will show lines. I hope that helps!
Hi, read through your guide (got me over the line on buying a drywall sander)! I’m trying to achieve a mirror or at least semi-gloss smooth finish in my house. The walls are currently a mix of painted plaster and new drywall repairs.
Did you spray your primer layers on or brush it on? Finally, did you end up applying a high sheen paint to walls? Thanks for any help!
Hi! I’m skim coating most of the walls in my house as the previous owner left some pretty rough textures that are just completely awful. It’s a lot of rough knock down texture and the majority of it is just huge spots of compound that were never sanded and then just painted over. The heavily raised spots I’ve shaved off with an oscillating tool but now I’m stuck on if it would make more sense to sand between coats so I can monitor progress or do my sanding after all the coats but then I am unsure how to tell how many coats I need that way. This is the best post I’ve found on skim coating so far and any advice or tips would be so appreciated. I just want a pretty smooth wall! :(
Hi Shania! You can definitely sand between coats if you’re starting with a really uneven or rough surface. If you don’t mind putting in the extra time and work, that may be your best bet. Hope that helps!
Great post! Did you remove all crown molding and baseboards before starting? Or is this something you can do with them still on? Thanks! Would like to attempt this in my home.
My walls are the typical orange peel texture that suburban home builders love and I hate. Would wallpaper work on a level 3 skimcoating or should I do level 4?
Hello. Should walks be sanded first if there is heavy texture? What sanding tool do you recommend for 11 foot walls? Or is it cheaper to just put new drywall?
I’d appreciate your guidance. Thank you so much.
I still think it would cost less to knock down the texture, but you could have it quoted locally.
What mud did you use for all 3 coats?